Shorelines

 

Currents:  surface, wind driven, gyres; deep, upwelling, downwelling, density, salinity, temperature

Waves: wavelength, wave base; swells, breakers, surf; longshore current, longshore drift, swash, backwash

Depositional beaches: passive margin shoreline; spits, baymouth bars, barrier islands, tombolo; human effects, groin, breakwater

Erosional shorelines: active margin shoreline; wave-cut cliffs, wave-cut bench , sea cave/sea arch/sea stack


Explain what drives deep ocean currents.  Where does downwelling most commonly occur?  Why?

Explain the difference between wave length and wave base, and how a particle of water moves as the wave passes. How does wave base affect the geometry of waves (swells vs breakers)?

Explain why sediment is transported parallel to the shoreline (longshore drift). Describe the natural depositional features related to longshore drift. How are some ways that humans affect this transport?

Describe the features of an erosional shoreline.


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