Currents: surface, wind driven, gyres; deep, upwelling, downwelling, density, salinity, temperature
Waves
: wavelength, wave base; swells, breakers, surf; longshore current, longshore drift, swash, backwashDepositional beaches
: passive margin shoreline; spits, baymouth bars, barrier islands, tombolo; human effects, groin, breakwaterErosional shorelines:
active margin shoreline; wave-cut cliffs, wave-cut bench , sea cave/sea arch/sea stackExplain the difference between wave length and wave base, and how a particle of water moves as the wave passes. How does wave base affect the geometry of waves (swells vs breakers)?
Explain why sediment is transported parallel to the shoreline (longshore drift). Describe the natural depositional features related to longshore drift. How are some ways that humans affect this transport?
Describe the features of an erosional shoreline.